MORE PLAYTIME.

 I have got the tree lights working well enough but more of that later. This morning I wandered over to the horses only to be greeted by a quad that was dilatory shutting it's throttle. I thought this is going to be fun. Half the body work to remove just to access the throttle cable. I naively assumed that in the absence of broken return springs a sticky cable was to blame. I ordered a new one and drove the ten miles to collect it. Drove the ten miles back, looked at the Suzuki and was horrified to see that though it had a throttle body it was also equipped with fuel injection. I removed the cable and turned the butterfly in the throttle body and it just crept back closed. Shit, I muttered. They should snap back quick sticks. I did think it could be salvaged but after a few minutes on the phone to the Quad man realised that re-bushing the body, reaming it out and messing was going to cost twice as much as a new body. This system is pretty standard motorbike stuff but of course everything is governed by a throttle position sensor, as spark timing is ruled by a crank sensor. I don't know whether it has exhaust oxygen sensors or LAMDAs as we engine specialists call them, I suspect it does. Bloody sensors drive me mad. The bastard things are everywhere.

 I have looked on t'internet and can't find anything regarding setting the throttle sensor. Usually they are just a bit of a bar with a wider end thingy. They live on the opposite side of the throttle body to the cable cam. It adjusts a bit like one adjusted points when engines had them. You fiddle about with a multi-meter to give the recommended resistance or voltage at full open or full closed, can't recall which, some work on voltage and some on the other. It's quite normal to clock engines this way by fooling the ECU but don't tell Greta. Since exhaust sensors you also have to remove them and the catalytic converter, the engine warning light will stop on but a bit of tape makes it's glow bearable and in any case it's not using much electric. This is the way to fast cheap tuning. Of course it all has to be back to normal before the test.

 I can remember when it was easier to have two bikes, Identical but for the VIN numbers, make a new VIN plate for the naughty one and run the nice Greta version through the test. All that required was an odometer swap or a cruise out on it now and again with the lady in your life. One had a mint low mileage bike to sell at the end of it. Now it's hardly worth the effort as the electronics and stuff are far too sensitive to meddling by me, I should have kept up. 

I blame the Germans for doing it on an industrial scale. They took the piss in a big way and got caught having sensible mode and pass emissions mode. This was not an accident. Germans spoiled it for us all just because being a bit thick they have to. Bloody pain in the arse as a nation, always will be. They ought to be nuked cheeky buggers. Taking advantage of bureaucrats is easy, I doubt one in ten in the department of transport has seen under a car bonnet let alone inside an engine or a had to make an ECU think it is getting regular and normal information. Happen we should have bombed their car plants again for being lying devious twats. It wasn't brain science even we thick British folk could work out how to fool an ECU. It's those bloody LAMDAs that don't lie now. There is one measuring oxygen before the CAT and one after, always has been. All they really do is assess the CAT. Pain in the arse they are. 

Not to worry, up here folk are quite happy to let me have a quick look at a Suzuki manual and scribble the relevant numbers on my hand. Be a different story if I wanted to use their paper and Biro.

I have a new lights video rendering but will post that tomorrow with instructions for those interested.

Have Fun.